Itineraries
A day in Sulina
You arrive by boat. The timetable is the operator’s, not ours. Sulina was a European town at a Danube mouth: lighthouse, maritime cemetery, streets that hold Greek, Lipovan, Jewish, Armenian names. The Delta advanced; the old lighthouse stayed in town. Do not miss the last boat.
The old lighthouse
Today it stands in the town, not on the shore. The museum in the lighthouse, when it is open, tells you why. It is the clearest geography lesson in the Delta: the river builds land in front of you, over decades.
The maritime cemetery
Names from three continents. You walk slowly, no picnic, no photos on new graves. It is a port index, not a “picturesque spot”.
The town
Straight streets, a nineteenth-century logic, a present of the end of the line. Cash, wind, a shop, a fish table if it is open. It is not Mamaia.
The beach
Beyond the village, wild. Off-season, empty. ARBDD. Water in the backpack. The beaches guide puts it next to Sfântu Gheorghe, not next to Eforie.
The return
The last boat is the last boat. If you want two days, book. The Tulcea base guide keeps you off the water at night if you do not want it.